OP…. I think a lot of us are trying to refrain from being rude here. But please know…… there are people that drive on dirt and gravel roads and driveways EVERY DAY for YEARS.

Yes, this can lead to some paint chipping underneath. But hey, we don’t eat off the bottom of our cars, right? It’ll be just fine.

I wouldn’t pay Mother Teresa $2,100 to replace pads and rotors on my vehicle. You should go somewhere else for this service, if you aren’t willing/able to do it yourself.

Also, rotors DO NOT always have to be changed out. “Pad slaps” are acceptable if the rotor is in good condition AND still within minimum thickness spec. But they are an easy up-sell item because the owner usually doesn’t know any better. But at your mileage, it’s likely they are not even close to below minimum spec. Unless you’re a mail driver.

If you buy the parts yourself (not at a dealership!!) - OEM VW pads are about $70 for the front. Rotor is about $73 each. Total up front and rear, you’re still less than $500.

Or go with some good Wagner pads for about $30 per set.

Your main mistake here is going to a dealership for a 11 year old vehicle. Unless you (and others) really have no other highly rated mechanics in your area, going to the dealership should be avoided. If your car is still under warranty, only go to the dealership.

If you really are “burning oil”, there’s likely a compression issue. A compression test is very easy and quick.

DO NOT pay someone to clean the outside of your engine in hopes that fixes an oil consumption issue.

Totally agree. With this, you can also get a feel of whether or not beefs exist between techs. Not that I’d recommend intervening. But it’s good to know about.

I think having a meeting with all the techs present could be a good start.

“Guys, I want you to enjoy your job here. What are some things that you feel we’re doing right? What are some things you think we could do better? What are some things that have you considering different employment?”

Don’t make promises to any answers you get. Log them all. Sleep on them. Implement what you can. And be open about what you can’t do.

You absolutely can. You just risk starting a fire at the pump. That risk is very slim though. (But it is why they have warning labels not to do just that).

Rule 8 - make and model.

It’s difficult to help you much if we don’t know what we’re taking about.

But most likely, you have some sort of tensioner system. Either a spring loaded pulley. Or a manually adjusted pulley. If you don’t know how to undo the belt tension on your vehicle, I don’t think I’d recommend taking the alternator off either. I’d be worried you’d crank down those bolts too hard and snap them.

If you insist on doing this work, Watch some videos specific to your vehicle. Get a service manual. Get a torque wrench, know how to use it, and know where to find torque specs.

People are realizing that a hybrid has incredibly longer/easier range than an EV. Doesn’t mean they aren’t a “phase” still.

For all questions related to fluid maintenance, consult your user manual. It will give you the service interval for all fluids, including the transmission.

If it does say “lifetime”, I’d still recommend a simple drain/fill every so many miles. Maybe at 50k miles each time.

I think the Matrix looks dog ugly. So because of that, I’d go with the CRV. But if you’re smelling wet dog and the heater doesn’t work, that’s also be a deal breaker for me.

I don’t buy house brands from ANY store if I can help it. Most of it is the same garbage. Or Willy and advance often carry aftermarket parts such as Moog, MDS, Felpro, and others. NAPA carries a lot of the same stuff but inside a NAPA box. I first try to find OEM online though.

Yeah, transmission shops are fairly plentiful. And many of them - it’s basically the only thing they do. Many of them are not chain stores. Just a few dudes who have been in the business for likely decades.

Sort of like an alternator shop. They specialize in rebuilding alternators and starters.

You’re fine. Top it off, if needed, with some distilled water. Put the cap back on. Keep an eye on temps.

If you’re having transmission issues, go to a highly rated transmission shop to get a diagnosis/quote. Those transmission guys know what they’re doing. If they end up telling you it’ll need to be rebuilt/replaced, decide from there.

A transmission rebuild could be $2k or more. A new one would likely ruin your savings.

OP, it looks like you’ve got your answer (wet/dry vacuum filter). But I just want you to know, it’s unlikely (essentially impossible) for a filter to “fall off of a car”. The car’s engine filter is encased in a plastic enclosure that would have to be taken apart. This filter is in the engine bay. It also is flat, not round like this (normally).

The only other air filter is the cabin filter. It’s even more difficult to get to and is inside the car (usually behind the glove box). It’s also flat, not round.

That center electrode looks pretty worn down to me. But my eyes are not a feeler gauge. Check with feelers to be sure.

How often does your owner’s manual say to swap plugs?

You seem to be asking questions while already having your mind made up. Were those rhetorical?

Pure water dissipates heat better than coolants. So it would be logical to say that pure water could keep an engine cooler. Pure coolant would keep an engine a bit hotter. Keeping with this logic, having a 60/40 mix of coolant/water would keep an engine just a bit warmer than a 50/50 mix.

The main two issues with running pure water are freezing point (as you mentioned), and the corrosion protection additives in coolant. If we didn’t have to worry about either of those issues, people would be better off running pure water all the time.

In OPs case, they likely have enough anti-freeze properties in their coolant. It likely won’t over heat. And they likely have enough concentration of anti-corrosion additives as well.

While not ideal, it’s likely just fine. If you leave it in, just keep an eye on temperatures. Other than possibly being a bit warmer (though unlikely), there are no other concerns here.

Well, the tire was screwed. But I doubt your wallet will be. Back it out, dispose of it in a place that can never be seen again. Apply soapy water. If no bubbles… good to go.

If it’s slight/occasional, may be fine. If it NEVER fires on that cylinder… probably not good.

Is it under warranty? If not, don’t waste your time/money at a dealership.