I would apply the same advice here as with only buying 2 new tires. The new ones always go on the rear.

Its a handling/safety/reaction thing. When a car doesn’t turn as much as you want its called understeer. When it turns more its oversteer. Understeer is the front end plowing, oversteer is donuts/drifting.

Study after study proves that during sudden understeer conditions most drivers can correct the car or get it back under control. Sudden oversteer and the car is crashing. I’m not talking donuts are fun oversteer when you make it happen, this is about losing it on a freeway ramp in the rain.

Shops have been sued for a crash when the new tires went on the front. Every new car made has understeer built into how it handles. Tires with more traction go on the rear.

Check you local laws. It may not just be dangerous from very different handling characteristics, but may also be illegal to mix them.

Sorry, it’s at WOT. Try 2nd or 3rd. And have lots of clear road ahead.

The only person on the planet who thinks your car is worth something because of sentiment is you. I’ve seen people put waaay too much money in a sentimental car. It brings exactly $0 extra in a sale, and it’s a non thinking machine whose molecules would be just as happy being a car or a tuna can, if they could be happy.

You know the minor issues and how it drives. Probably what featured oil leaks you’ve already fixed too. Could you get a car you know is in the condition your car is for 8k? You always buy new? What about a couple years old instead?How much would 30k (or more) difference change the house purchase?

Fwiw, you bought it new and got 30k more than I would say to keep a beemer. It’s already started getting Teutonic in maintenance costs so I would trend towards dumping it if reliability is high on your priority list and you don’t like surprises.

Personally, I can live with some busted stuff or leaks in a car if it means a house. (and own several cars) I can also probably better determine than you what is ok to live with vs. call a tow truck so don’t forget to take piece of mind into account.

I’m sure there are, but personally, I am a fan of “right tool for the job”. It generally works better than something that might do it, might also destroy the piece and you end up using a drill and thread repair kits before its done 2 weeks later.

Some time guides have a/b/c skill levels next to the time.

hazard lights are directly connected to the battery and will work no matter where you have the keys. In your pocket or in the ignition with the vehicle running or not.

Your year of Benz is known for failure of the EZL, (electric steering lock) but you must have a second key to try first.

Like any other garage, a dealership is staffed by people. They may have factory training, tools, systems and help lines to call, but they still have employees that range from brilliant to can’t diagnose their way out of a wet paper bag.

Taken from alldata:

NOTICE: Do not loosen or remove the crankshaft pulley bolt without first installing the special tools as instructed in this procedure. The crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft timing sprocket are not keyed to the crankshaft. The crankshaft, the crankshaft sprocket and the pulley are fitted together by friction, using diamond washers between the flange faces on each part. For that reason, the crankshaft sprocket is also unfastened if the pulley bolt is loosened. Before any repair requiring loosening or removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt, the crankshaft and camshafts must be locked in place by the special tools, otherwise severe engine damage can occur.

Depends on labor rates in your area.

I’m going to guess you are in a high cost of living area and at the dealer. If so, that price is possible. If you are not in a high COL area and the dealer, that’s high by around 50%.

Have you hooked up a scanner that can access the SAM modules, sensors, OCP and such?

Self reporting to Carfax is for your records, it won’t go on a report.

Not all shops report to Carfax, it’s a voluntary or software subscription thing.

Keep receipts for parts and all services. Mark them with mileage and what you did. Put them with the car and mention them when it’s up for sale.

Find a mechanic with a compression gauge and an inspection camera before pulling the head.

On your 2004 Jetta it means the transmisison ecu has a fault code stored and is in limp mode. If that isn’t your ride, add the info, but it probably means the same thing. You’ll need a scanner that can read the tranny fault codes.

You need to call the shop that did the oil change and have them get your receipts. If you DIY’d the job, maybe going back in you CC receipts will help. If you bought stuff on a customer rewards account at a part store, they may have dates. If you can’t prove you have maintained the car you will most likely be paying for this.

Clutch slip is normally first noted when in higher gears and pushing the throttle all the way.

If you don’t normally drive this way, or haven’t noticed it, do a hard pull once cruising in a high gear. If you have clutch slip in first and second, it should be very noticeable in high. Cars don’t usually make it very far once clutch slip happens in first or second. If it is, better get an appointment booked.

Generally, compliant cats are certified and tested to meet emissions standards and they have more of the stuff that makes them work inside. Non-compliant parts will have less of the expensive stuff and have not been govt. certified. Many cars are made today to meet CA standards no matter where you buy it, but that is not always the case. There is a sticker under the hood that has emissions level info. So the parts may or may not need to be compliant to fit your car, you’ll have to check. The downside to non-compliant cats are the fact there is less convertory goodness inside and you will (in our experience) have an engine light come back in less than 6 months for efficiency again, no matter if you get an ebay special or name brand exhaust part.