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1·10 months agoDoesn’t have to be completely flat to damage the inner liner. 25 miles? My guess is it’s ruined, you could take it to a shop to have the liner inspected, but you don’t want your backup to be sketchy. Good reason to carry a small 12v socket compressor or hell even a bike pump in a pinch
50/50 water vinegar with a squirt of dish soap. Soak them, wringing them out a few times over a couple hours. Then rinse. Usually works
Seriously. Good breaker with some pipe if needed solves a lot of problems
Have had lugs not come off with a m18 high torque before tbf…
19.5 socket, or 20 if it’s bad
Yeah YouTube has a knack for that. Don’t worry about the cuts where shit actually needed explaining or got difficult
Definitely know what you’re doing first, but specialized knowledge, tools and devices for brake fluid flush? Come on.
If you’re reusing the rotor, smack it with a sledge with a 2x4 to prevent marring the rotor. If you’re replacing it, send it without the wood. Either way stick a light layer of antiseize between hub and rotor for the future, don’t bother with the set screws
Bolt pattern, seat type, offset, width and diameter and hub vs lug centric as far as tire and fitment in the wheel well
Clunky from P>D could be worn mount(s). The rolling into park is normal for any automatic, the pawl doesn’t have enough teeth to work with for no movement into engagement. If you’re parking on an incline/decline, gently brake while still rolling into the pawl to prevent undue damage, then engage parking brake.
Having a schedule for chain replacement is like having a schedule for engine replacement. Like yeah, it won’t last forever, but design/manufacturing defects and neglect aside, they last ages. On time or early oil changes with the correct viscosity. If you hear rattling/chain slap on startup that’s when you get it checked out.
That looks to be your thermostat housing, so they didn’t clean the mating surfaces or they reused the old gasket and it didn’t agree. If you’re at all handy this is very DIYable, just gotta bleed the air out after.
It works until it doesn’t. Maybe it just cracks and you notice it, maybe it explodes when you give it the beans. I remember seeing something about it incurring additional wear on the impact wrench as well but I’ll be damned if I can find that.
Knowing nothing of NJ pricing, sounds a bit high for Indy prices. It’s only a L4, easy as shit to do plugs on. Get quotes from other (reputable) shops, best way to find fair pricing short of someone in NJ chiming in here
You won’t get a straight answer because nobody, especially online, can guarantee no problems after a drain/fill. A delay in shifting could be the car holding higher shift points until the fluid is near/at operating temp. Could also be the transmission adapting for older fluid, using delayed/harder shifts to protect itself. if you’re not experiencing slipping or shift flare, you have a very good chance of being fine. Worst case it was on its way out and the change made it worse, put the old fluid back in and start looking for a replacement
Need fuel air spark compression. Check that injector is firing, for mechanical or electrical failure. Check coil on plug/wire if loose or damaged. Check spark plug, just because it’s new doesn’t mean it’s exempt from manufacturing defects, damage/wrong gap from transport, or improper install. Dielectric grease or antiseize in excess or the wrong places will cause misfires. Lastly compression, make sure that cylinder’s compression is similar compared to non-missing cylinders.
Nothing ac related is cheap. Do it once do it right, and it’ll last many many years.