I would wipe it (as a general practice when sending anything with data anywhere). Otherwise it will return to you in a state similar to how it came out of the box.
I would wipe it (as a general practice when sending anything with data anywhere). Otherwise it will return to you in a state similar to how it came out of the box.
It’s four Zen 2 CPU cores (came out in 2019) and RDNA 2 graphics (came out in 2020). So between one and two generations depending on which part you’re looking at.
Still compared to what is available on the market for the 15W power budget, still very capable.
Have you Googled for pixel unstick programs or websites and run them for an hour or two?
Leave it in your suitcase (take a lock) or use the safe in the hotel if they have one. I travel with it all the time and it’s fine.
It’s probably the improved process node for the APU. What is using power during standby is the memory controller in the APU. Both the controller and memory chips have improved manufacturing processes.
Look for Ludusavi in the Discover store.
It’s the same process.
I can’t answer the dual boot question since I haven’t looked into it. Not interested. There’s r/windowsondeck where someone may know.
That’s the responsibility of the game devs, not Valve. It’s their code causing that to happen. Valve gave you the tools with a CPU TDP limiter.
It’s only in gaming mode.
It’s “BOE,” not “OBE.”
It’s the same finish.
I use a little water on the cleaning cloth and it takes them off. Anything persistent I hit with 90% IPA.
Our OLED and two LCD Decks are all fine. Tried a reimage?
It doesn’t help you now, but in the future use Ludusavi from the Discover store. It will allow you to backup and restore all of your saves.
Digital Foundry show a relatively minor but distinct improvement.
Not even necessary. The default settings in desktop mode will dim and then shut off the screen. Once downloads finish, the Deck will sleep.
Install a program from the Discover store called Filelight. It will allow you to see which folders are taking up how much space.
If you don’t know what it is, ask here before deleting anything.
I have had my 512GB LCD for 15 months. It’s been used at home, on a plane, a bus, in an automobile, at work, and in hotels. It has no case nor even a screen protector. All I do is put it back in a zip up case, align the included cloth with the screen, zip it up and toss and in a backpack.
Originally I used the included case for that, but now I use the Tomtoc slim case. It’s similar in thickness to the insert for the 1TB OLED models, maybe a little thinner.
I can show photos of my LCD model, but it has zero blemishes at all. No scratches on the screen, nor scuffs on the body. With everything off the only visible difference to my brand new OLED model is the color of the joysticks.
No, you don’t need a case. Just put it back in a zip up case whenever it’s not in use. That’s all we have done to both our LCDs (my wife’s is at 13 months now) and they have been perfectly fine.
It is handled automatically. But you can turn it off if you like.
It depends on the game, but every time I turn mine on there are at least a few shader cache updates.