Only reason I wouldn’t recommend a Corolla again is because it’s low. You’re looking to buy then what you think is their last car. They aren’t likely to have an easier time getting out of a sedan as time goes on. Hell, I have a notably different experience hopping into a sedan versus a small SUV and I am less than half their age.

You mentioned their finances are tough. Is MPG critical? If not, I’d look at a CRV or RAV4. New they start around $28k, so a bit above your price range, but you may be able to find a gently used 2020 under that price point.

Toyota in Lancaster, MA wanted $250 for a tpms sensor replacement while rotating tires (we bought a serviced used vehicle and got a few oil changes and rotations with it). Yeah, I declined.

What did you sign as far as an estimate?

This was a super cool car that was about twice the price it should’ve been to make sense. I was excited about it when first announced despite the low range.

Just to temper the conclusions,'isn’t the majority of Toyotas lineup hybridized now? Makes sense that people buying Toyotas, which are solid af cars, are buying hybrids. I personally wish Toyota would’ve hybridized everything sooner. Of course, that’s with me speaking as a consumer and not as a producer. Easy to say “make more of xyz” from my computer chair.

The beaten do death warranty wasn’t in place when the vehicle sold as new. I mentioned that a few times myself. I misspoke about the California warranty; odd that it excludes EVs though. Anyway, the buyer seems to be in the hook for repairs in this case.

A lot of folks are claiming the battery should be warrantied. Here is the US warranty. I do believe the federally mandated warranty was enacted within the last year. California state law as of April 2018 requires a 150k warranty. The question is, when was the vehicle originally delivered?

Mercedes claims otherwise.. 8 years/62,000 miles.

When you sell the car you have to make good on the loan. You can’t sell the car and keep paying off the loan. You’re $10k underwater in the vehicle according to kbb. I’d add the vin to various websites like carvanna and see what they offer you.

Your only option in getting rid of the car is paying the difference, or defaulting on the loan. What’s your monthly payment? I’d find a way to make that work and save elsewhere. If you can’t, a repo can happen, but keep in mind that ruins your credit for like a decade. Without credit you can find it difficult to do something as simple as renting an apartment.

Can I ask how you have a car worth $14k that you bought used for presumably more than the $24k you have left to pay it off? The car can’t have depreciated $10k in under a year.

I’d give it a try and see how it works. You’ll lose efficiency but it’s still pretty cool.

I never owned one but drove one we rented around 2012. It definitely felt like a budget vehicle, which I can deal with, but lack of cruise control was a mistake for me.

I can’t speak on reliability, just figured I’d share what little experience I had. Unless they’ve greatly improved them over the last decade, I don’t know that I’d purchase one. My standard aren’t exactly high for the cabin, but it was really totally devoid of creature comforts. The upholders being by the windows were a trio though. I think I liked that.

Poor people generally aren’t buying new vehicles if they’re making wise financial decisions. The used market is what needs to catch up, and I’ll say, it seems to be.

We had just gotten solar and built the solar up to be about 30% more than we expected to need in anticipation of an EV. Wife’s commit went for 3 miles round trip to almost 100 so the time was right; she can also slow charge at work which gets her about 45 miles through her shift. At this point it’s 100% going to be a money saver IF it gives us at least 150k miles without additional out of pocket expenses. Every mile after that is money in the bank.

Surprised if the color of thermoplastic. Should have a black circular knob on it.

My understanding for the states charging you more to register is to make up for the road tax they are no longer collecting via gasoline sales. I do think this is an imperfect way to do things because it doesn’t take into account the usage of the vehicle in any meaningful way. I could be driving a few thousand miles a year and I’m paying the equivalent of someone driving 10k+. At that rate, why not just do a flat charge for all cars and forget about the taxes built into fuel?

So is Cadillac ev nomenclature just a q at the end of the name?

I have a 2015 highlander for the last five years. I plan on keeping it another five, maybe ten. My recommendation is to keep driving the thing. You’re getting killed in interest and it seems like you’re looking to dig the hole deeper.