Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open, at least partially. Going downhill means the engine is under less load and isn’t generating as much heat and because it’s colder weather, dissipates heat more quickly. In warmer weather, the open thermostat allows coolant through the radiator at all times rather than when it’s supposed to at a certain temperature. This very same condition happened to me about 3 weeks ago, just in a different car. Cooled off going downhill and all.
Sounds like you have a parasitic draw on the battery somewhere. Perhaps start by finding the fuse for the alarm and pulling it out. Are there any aftermarket modifications? Dodgy stereo installation? Another possibility could be the ignition cylinder. Often, particulary in older csrs, they can become loose and be in the “on” or “accessory” position when the key is out and you think it’s off. I once had a similar problem with a 1984 BMW 5er. I found a “battery kill switch” that would disconnect the battery when the engine was off. Before I started the car, I would just flip the switch, which was a knob I mounted under the steering column, and it would start right up. Had it for years. Best of luck!
Maybe a test would be to open the hood and run the engine. Have a helper turn the fan off and on a few times, see whether the noise is coming from the engine bay or inside the cabin. Rev the engine some see if the sound changes. If the noise is coming from the engine bay, it may be the AC compressor. Wish I could help more. Hard to diagnose sounds by text! Good luck though.
Does the rumbling “frequency” seem to be affected by vehicle speed? You don’t state how long you’ve had it, but the tires came with the car that sat for 10 years, it’s time for them to go.
If a shop performed an alignment, your suspension is probably in good shape. A lot of (good) alignment shops won’t touch it if the suspension or steering shows very much wear.
“What to expect” completely depends on where you take it. Can you inspect the brakes yourself? Maybe post a pic or two that shows how thick the pads are. A possibility, even if remote, is that a backing plate, which is a cover on the back of each of the brake rotors, may have been struck by some road debris or whatever and is now rubbing against the rotor when the car moves. This all may be something you can sort out yourself for $0 if you’re willing to jack up the car a time or two.
I’ve never heard of spacers or adapters breaking but are the 8 lug wheels a lot heavier than the 5 lug? They were made for a 3/4 ton or 1 ton which usually has stronger axles, diff, and suspension. So you’re increasing unspring weight and stressing those parts a bit more. May be fine though if you don’t tow anything. I used 2" thick spacers once on a 1986 bmw I had, screwed my alignment but I found a local shop that got it right.
Those are absolute peak Mercedes. It’s totally possible to find a replacement fender on ebay or even a Euro-specialist salvage yard in that color.
Welcome to Utah. I moved here from Indiana just over 2 years ago. I really miss breathing clean air. Still have my IN driver’s license, $52 for a UT one isn’t going to happen.
Do NOT screw with it too much and it will live for another 25 years. Maybe update sound system and add cameras, but much more than that is needless. Cars weren’t THAT different in 1999.
The 1990’s brought us peak Toyota. FWIW, lack of use can cause problems just like lack of maintenance. Congrats on the score tho
Such additives are “swear by it or swear at it”. You’ll be fine but why did you add it? What problems were you having?
Starting fluid is the easiest fuel system test there is. If it does start, put a fuel pressure gauge on the test port to be sure fuel oressure is good.
Alternatively, remove one spark plug from the engine and connect its wire to it like it was in the engine. Touch the electrode end of the plug to some bare metal around the engine bay or engine to ground it, but NOT near the plug hole (touch it to steel not aluminum) and have a friend crank the engine. You should see a spark on the plug. If not, the ignition system has problems (this test won’t hurt you or anything by the way, but hold the plug by the wire when test cranking, not the plug itself). As a bonus, if you smell gasoline from the open spark plug hole, you know it’s getting fuel.
Not that it’s ever happened to me a bunch of times 😏 but is the parking brake on? Really it should die if you release the clutch pedal but dont give it gas. Definitely shouldn’t be going into forward gears without pressing the clutch pedal either. Something’s not right. Trans is full of fluid? Clutch master/slave cylinders full of fluid and bled properly? FWIW I’m not an expert with your exact trans but manuals all basically work the same. Good luck!
Entirely possible it’s the fuel pump. It’s often difficult to diagnose this because a fuel pressure test isn’t advised while you’re driving unless you’re Jeremy Clarkson; and while idling, fuel pressure can read normal. While you’re driving, it’s “under load” and requires more fuel which the pump may be unable to supply, leading to driveability problems like you’ve described. Pull up your rear seat. If you see a round panel with screws, that’s the fuel pump access panel. Hopefully you have that, some models do not. Replacing a fuel pump is certainly easily owner-serviceable, and part pricing can be £50-75+ according to Google.
It’s always wise to change fluids when in doubt, but definitely no flush.
2001, back when Chryslers were engineered by Daimler and they told us they were “domestic-built German” cars. In similar water pump replacements (on actual German cars), I’ve set the engine to TDC before removing the timing belt. It helps to loosen the plugs so you can crank it over more easily. Then it’s just a matter of digging it all out. I’ve never had bad luck with any Autozone water pump ever, or anything from Rock Auto really. Likely they’ll have a complete kit.
I can imagine that at least one brake caliper has seized up, and not fully released from when you mashed the pedal. Possibly the calipers need to be removed and new pads installed, and be sure the caliper guide pins are cleaned and lubricated. This is owner-serviceable if you’re willing, save a ton of money. Are there any weird smells or sounds? Have you checked the level and color of brake fluid? It should be fairly clear. Brake pads and rotors that are so heat damaged that they are discolored should probably be replaced, as they can only absorb so much heat for so long before they become weakened, and you drove it with them still bound up.
Assuming the fuse and relay are both good, it could be that the wiper motor is bad or “scissor” mechanism attached to the motor under the cowl is binding up or has broken. Hope for the fuse or relay. Pulling a wiper motor assembly will ruin an afternoon.
I should clarify that the car had a mystery drain I could never find, and I added the switch to cut off the battery so it wouldn’t lose its charge.