It’s not damaging at all to the vehicle.

The brakes will wear out a little quicker than normal, but nothing is getting damaged.

I should add a caveat. This applies to a properly maintained vehicle. If you drive a rusted out shit box where the suspension is held together with hummus and cheesecloth, all bets are off.

You MIGHT be able to drill and tap the thread in a barbed brass nipple. Something like this https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-straight-crimped-or-hose-clamp-14-in-hose-id-18-in-thread-6afh3/i/G0249051/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=20749401279&productid=G0249051&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpvHJp87gggMVPc7CBB2OuBPBEAQYECABEgLtc_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

At this point, you have nothing to lose.

If it works, you saved yourself a lot of money, if it fails you aren’t out anything since you have to replace it anyways.

Your Q7 has the common rail fuel system. That fuel system is VERY VERY weak and is highly susceptible to damage from misfueling.

The general consensus is that anything more than 2% contamination has a high risk of high pressure fuel pump destruction.

11 liters of an 80 liter tank is 13%. Do not drive your vehicle again. You need to drain the fuel tank and all of the fuel lines, flush them completely with diesel and a fuel lubricant improver, then pray to what ever diety you believe in.

My shop doesn’t perform vehicles……

Unless you’re trying to ask an incomplete question….

Vehicle inspections?

Vehicle tune ups?

Vehicle repossessions?

Vehicle condemnations?

Vehicle exorcisms?

Can it? Yes, it can.

This idiot should have taken 2 seconds to look at the shifter to see if there was a manual release which would allow the transmission to be put in neutral regardless if ignition.

Even if he didn’t see the manual release, a 5 second google search would reveal this

https://www.youcanic.com/manually-release-shifter-out-park-kia-forte-2018-2022/

Dragging a vehicle in park can damage the transfer case and/or transmission.

It’s recommended since it can take some time to flash the ECU, and if the battery drops too low in that time you sit with the ignition on, but not running, it can brick the ECU.

Wait….

So you just paid probably $500 to tune a naturally aspirated car?

That is the biggest single waste of money on a car unless you have supporting mods (injectors, forced induction, nos, maybe exhaust, etc).

A naturally aspirated tune will get you, what, 25 horsepower?

They got you good.