Got transmission fluid?

Broken driveshaft or CV joint?

If the O2 sensors are old and lazy or the cat is marginal you might have a pending P0420 cat efficiency code.

I would look at o2 sensor voltages and waveforms to see if one or both sensors are not up to spec.

Valves would really need to be messed up to cause a hard start.

On most Honda four cylinders the valves get a tiny bit loose after lots of miles and they get a bit noisy. But that doesn’t cause any drivability symptoms, it’s just going to hurt performance a tiny bit.

On Honda V6 engines it’s common for exhaust valves to get too tight over time. A tight valve may not close all the way when hot, then it cannot transfer enough heat to the head. For sure a tight valve can cause driveability issues because the cylinder is leaking compression.

Linkage is borked or misadjusted?

FSM is here

http://wedophones.com/Manuals/Honda/

Most newer Toyota or Honda vehicles will hold up quite well.

Assuming it’s a normal transponder key, have the dealer or a locksmith reset the vehicle immobilizer and add only the keys you have on hand.

Nissan CVT transmissions are a dumpster fire in a vat of burning medical waste, they suck more than the vacuum of space. They’re more unreliable than Jeffrey Dahmer on a cocktail of LSD, PCP, THC and moonshine.

Most Nissan CVTs are lucky to make it to the end of the 60k mile warranty. So hell to the no to the Nissan.

Make sure you get the Toyota inspected by a trusted mechanic because Rust is not your friend in that part of the country .

Idemitsu makes subie compatible CVT fluids that is much cheaper than stealership.

Idemitsu CVTF Type SB2

https://www.idemitsulubricants.com/product/cvtf-type-sb2

I’ll try to answer this, here goes.

Why not just rewire the distributor and use the ECU that you have in the vehicle?

1. there is a back door to bypass the immobilizer but you need to know the Vin from the vehicle it came from and your Honda dealer can provide you with the “brake code”. Unfortunately This is only a temporary bypass though to get you to the dealer without a tow truck. Otherwise the answer is nope.

2. Jesus, no.

As someone who does surface mount repair and all sorts of reverse engineering and computer hacking, I can tell you with certainty that there’s no way on God’s green earth that you’re going to be able to do what you describe.

Ditto for 3 and 4.

Legit PDFs of your FSM including wiring diagrams

http://wedophones.com/Manuals/Honda/

The cash only mechanic sounds sketchy. Thats a red flag to charge cash only because he’s probably not paying his taxes.

Have a dealer inspect it.

Lexus, Toyota, Acura or Honda

Ford or VW are not tops for comfort/reliability/safety.

r/whatcarshouldibuy

The first phrase makes no sense. You don’t “run” a diagnostic trouble code.

You get a headache, you don’t Run a headache.

An older Toyotas a failing harmonic balancer is more likely to cause engine shaking.

The HB is the lower crank pulley.

How many miles? When did you last change the CVT fluid?

When you say maintenance signal do you mean the check engine light or the maintenance reminder?

The CEL is supposed to come on when you start the car as part of the normal lamp check procedure. (Of course all the lights are supposed to come on for the same reason).

Normally if the light stays on there’s a stored trouble code. Most places like AutoZone can check for stored codes for free.

Unless he unplugged or damaged a wiring harness, there’s no way a fluid change could cause CEL. In other words it’s unlikely he caused the issue.

Check transmission fluid and oil level and scan for codes.

Junk floating around in gas tank?

Misfire

Probably a failed ignition coil.

Any auto parts store can scan codes for free. if it’s just a coil that’s an easy DIY fix on a four-cylinder.

There’s nothing wrong with your car.

The normal key has an RFID chip embedded inside, the valet key does not. (Or the other keys are not programmed to the vehicle.

FYI, If you lost the programmed keys, Honda has a backdoor to bypass the immobilizer via a VIN specific “brake code” to prevent having to tow to dealership.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10087261-2280.pdf yeah

DIYers get stuck on seized spark plugs, sheared off valve cover bolts or complex repairs like timing chain or head gaskets.

Common sense isn’t always common. For example it’s critical to check a cylinder head for cracks/warpage when changing head gasket, it’s critical to bleed brakes/cooling system properly, and don’t try to torque valve cover bolts to 30 ft/lbs because they will shear off.

Look on eBay for a used one.

Wheel repair shops can fix lots of things.