If you don’t have split temp controls driver and passenger side, you are most likely low on refrigerant. If the a/c system is low it but still working it can make only part of the evaporator core get cold and make only half the vents blow cool air. Best of lick!!

If you don’t have split temp controls driver and passenger side, you are most likely low on refrigerant. If the a/c system is low it but still working it can make only part of the evaporator core get cold and make only half the vents blow cool air. Best of lick!!

Check your transmission fluid level. there is a tiny dipstick in the front right corner of the transmission pan that you can check it with. you can pull the cap off with a 19mm wrench but you have to check it running. Watch out for that passenger side catalytic converter. It’ll get warm quick! Best of luck!

Check your transmission fluid level. there is a tiny dipstick in the front right corner of the transmission pan that you can check it with. you can pull the cap off with a 19mm wrench but you have to check it running. Watch out for that passenger side catalytic converter. It’ll get warm quick! Best of luck!

Hear me out. Its gonna sound strange, but clear the codes and see what comes back first then start there.

Hear me out. Its gonna sound strange, but clear the codes and see what comes back first then start there.

If it was a wheel speed sensor the abs light would be on for sure. parts store may be able to scan for codes? But might have to take to a shop unless you have a scanner than access the abs module. Is the check engine light on?

If it was a wheel speed sensor the abs light would be on for sure. parts store may be able to scan for codes? But might have to take to a shop unless you have a scanner than access the abs module. Is the check engine light on?

Those have a really common issue with torque converter shutter, take it to a chevy dealer and they can do a “super flush” on the transmission and it should take care of that issue.

Those have a really common issue with torque converter shutter, take it to a chevy dealer and they can do a “super flush” on the transmission and it should take care of that issue.

New front struts, lower control arms, inner and outer tie rod ends, and sway bar end links should do the trick.

New front struts, lower control arms, inner and outer tie rod ends, and sway bar end links should do the trick.

It sounds like you have a pretty good vacuum leak somewhere. Listen around your intake manifold for the hissing noise and see if there are any hoses disconnected from any ports on the manifold. if not, its most likely intake manifold gaskets. They are notorious for leaking on the 4.0 rangers and explorers from the late 90s to the early 2000s. As for the transmission issue, How sloppy is your shifter? And does the needle that points to the selected gear on the cluster properly line up with the gear that you are actually in?

It sounds like you have a pretty good vacuum leak somewhere. Listen around your intake manifold for the hissing noise and see if there are any hoses disconnected from any ports on the manifold. if not, its most likely intake manifold gaskets. They are notorious for leaking on the 4.0 rangers and explorers from the late 90s to the early 2000s. As for the transmission issue, How sloppy is your shifter? And does the needle that points to the selected gear on the cluster properly line up with the gear that you are actually in?

An arcing coil pack shouldn’t cause a no crank. Possibilities are a kind of slim with that model truck. Could be a transponder key issue or an ignition switch issue. How many miles are on the truck?

An arcing coil pack shouldn’t cause a no crank. Possibilities are a kind of slim with that model truck. Could be a transponder key issue or an ignition switch issue. How many miles are on the truck?