Any of the “name” brands should work. If you’re skeptical you can always just get the official Toyota oil from a dealer (comes in quart bottles).

Or alternatively, like I originally said, someone fucked up the head rest when doing the pre-delivery service when they shoved an accessory box into the trunk and squashed the head rest.

Why is this subreddit so dramatic for no reason.

0w20.

Dozens will die. Heads will roll. Society crumbling. Et cetera.

I don’t know man, I just work on them. I don’t think I’ve ever actually looked to see if the head rest on the rear of them was flat or not on the Corolla Crosses.

I’ll probably just use the Toyota 0w20, or whatever name brand one meets the same spec.

Ultimately it doesn’t matter for the most part. Changing the oil on time matters more than what oil you’re changing it with as long as it’s the right viscosity and oil type.

Do you actually have chauffeur to drive you around in one? Because if you don’t you’ll regret buying one. Parts availability is non-existent and all has to be imported. Aftermarket parts support is nill, expect around $8000 to replace the air suspension system when it fails on parts alone, there will be no aftermarket option to convert it to standard suspension.

And whatever mechanic works on them better be able to read Japanese, because the repair manual does not come in English (I can’t even access it on TIS, and I am a tech at a Toyota dealer).

Turn your A/C on. It dehumidifies the cabin, helps during the winter time.

Otherwise, check your passenger’s side floor underneath the floor mat. If there’s water there then your evaporator drain hose is clogged and needs to be cleared.

Not how that works.

It’s hard to find A small suv that is nice, not a budget built vehicle.

The Lexus UX is their equivalent of a Corolla Cross. If you want a “nice” Corolla Cross that’s what you’d go for. https://www.lexus.com/models/UX-hybrid

I work on them and drove one (gas model) to training multiple times. They ride good, the M20A engine has good power while getting good gas mileage. Maintenance is very simple. You lose some rear leg room but get a lot more storage room and a much higher roof line.

It’s a Corolla with a lift/body kit and more interior space with the capacity to tow a bit. I like them. If I had a choice between the Corolla and the Corolla Cross I’d go for the Cross every time.

It’s a Corolla with a lift kit and a head room increase. Not sure what you expect?

To me that looks like someone put the rear seat down and then moved the passenger’s front seat back and squished the headrest against something. But I could be wrong.

Always steady light means that either a tire pressure is low (75% of the correct pressure) or that the threshold was set incorrectly (someone reset the TPMS system while tires were not inflated properly).

Blinking light indicates a TPMS system failure, 99% of the time this means that a sensor has failed. The valve stems of the wheels actually have a sensor built into them that are inside of the tire, when the batteries die out (they last around 5-10 years), they cause the car to flash that light to tell you that the system is inoperative. It’s a good idea to replace all four at the same time (even better to do it when replacing all the tires because it saves $ on labor), but it’s not necessary depending on the battery life (any decent shop with the proper TPMS tool can tell if the battery on the other sensors are low, depending on how old the car is because some of them just don’t say).

Source: Am a tech at a dealership.

The design is so fragile that it’s used in industrial equipment all the time. Stop being a fudd.

That specific year had really bad DCMs (Data Communication Module, AKA telematics transceiver). If you notice any of these three issues, the DCM should be replaced: Other party can’t hear your voice when you’re in a phone call through the car, key FOB remote start doesn’t work (after it has been activated by enabling the remote start trial through the Toyota app), or the 12V battery on your car randomly getting drained. Per service bulletin T-SB-0112-20.

The evaporator drain hose also tends to get clogged on those due to insect intrusions. I’d personally recommend installing the Arinix pesticide tip on the end of it to keep insects out (as long as you don’t have outdoor pets), part number 87265-33010 per service bulletin T-SB-0080-19. Otherwise, have the evaporator drain hose cleared out every 2-3 years using the Toyota kit, part number 00289-ACRKT. We’ve had a bunch of them whose interiors got flooded during the summer because of this.

Otherwise those are great cars. Just make sure to use good quality 0w16 oil every 10k miles and you’ll be all set.

I literally work at a Toyota dealer, not how it works. The car has to be diagnosed with failed repairs multiple times before lemon cases apply. Varies by state, but generally it must be at minimum three times. The only exception is if it’s something where the OEM just accepts that something is a serious problem that cannot be rectified, but that almost never happens.

The OP probably just has a shitty tow hitch that’s causing the power door kick sensor to activate. You can’t lemon law a car for that.

Not how that works.

Man if you think the dealers are ripping people off by charging people $110 for filters you should see the margins on the quick lube places.

Yeah it’s fucked. The FA20 engine sometimes just pops like that.

If the manager is decent they’ll either reduce some labor costs, provide a free rental, or reduce the parts costs down. Likely depends on whether or not you have had the service done there (the sales department and the service department are different entities, loyalty to one is not loyalty to the other).

If that goes nowhere, you can call up Toyota and ask pretty pretty please if they’ll help at all since it’s just out of warranty.

Side note: Spark plugs, rear differential gear oil, and transmission fluid are due at 60k miles. If you do end up redoing the engine make sure it gets new plugs.

Yeah, the batteries for Prius Cs are tiny.