Although the RMA response may have changed since I started my own process, I’m documenting the whole thing here so people have an idea of what to expect. In my own experience they got back to me in less than 2 days after I opened the support ticket.

Nice, glad to hear yours is going (mostly) smoothly. Curious as to what happened to get yours mislabeled as a repair, but at least it didn’t set you back too much time.

My support ticket explicitly says “replace”, so hopefully mine is set correctly, but I’ll have to wait for it to get to SLC before I can find out. It is in UPS’s hands now, although they haven’t updated the ETA to anything definite today. Maybe it’s on a plane. 😂

If you don’t mind, when you do get your replacement can you update this thread with the replacements (hopefully perfect) condition? There has been so much FUD going around about the LE OLED dead pixels that I would like to, if possible, alleviate fears that people might have about having to do the RMA process multiple times to get one with no issues.

Woof, I guess I’ll keep my fingers crossed for the both of us then. 😂🤞

Unless there are some significant delays in the shipping process, it shouldn’t even be close.

Lets say UPS is correct, and mine shows up at the RMA center on 12/5. The RMA ticket response says it may take up to 3 days to process the RMA. A replacement should be just a new unit, likely shipped from the same warehouse my first one came from, which I believe took 2 days to be delivered. Lets say that warehouse is empty, and it needs to come from all the way across the country.

12/5 + 3 days + 7 days = 12/15, plenty of time before Christmas. I’m betting it will show up before then, but even in a bad case scenario it should be plenty of time.

Mine actually showed up pretty quickly in the US, I managed to refresh my way to a purchase in the first 13 minutes of launch and it was in my hands 6 days later. If that dang dead green wasn’t where I could see it easily I might have just held on to it. Don’t go looking for problems if you don’t notice any naturally. 😂

And don’t let the sub get you scared about yours being defective either, the people whose LEs are perfect are too busy playing to post about having nothing to complain about. It certainly feels like the LEs are getting beat up right now, but squeaky wheels get heard.

The “don’t look for them if you can help it” is real. Unfortunately I had one where I did notice it, and once I saw it I couldn’t un-see it. It wasn’t actually too distracting while playing games (it was a dead green subpixel) unless that area was green or white. After doing some screen tests I found 2 more that I didn’t even notice at all before.

I’m RMA’ing it because I don’t mind doing so, I was on the fence about doing it at all since I think the OLED is an awesome all around refresh of the Deck. But I know it’s there, and I know that would bug me personally. Plus I can just use my LCD in the meantime, until I get a perfect LE OLED.

I’m not worried about Valve making things right at all, and I know I am in a better position than some people by having a Deck already, but I will say I am a little disappointed that, at least anecdotally, the LE seems to have a higher level of defects than the normal OLEDs. I know there are likely a lot of reasons why they used the BOE screen, and I know the Samsungs are also not perfect, I guess I am just a little sad about the “top end” model not having “top end” QC. So it goes, and I know when I do eventually get my perfect LE OLED it’s going to be worth the wait.

I have an OLED LE and that same charger and don’t have any issues with it. For reference I’m using it with a 100W Anker Powerline 3 cable, and have been using this setup with my LCD Deck since launch with no issues.

I also tried a 65W Baseus charger and cord I have, also no problems. The green charging light comes on no matter when I plug either of these in (I tested with the Deck off, asleep and awake).

Have you tried unplugging the charger from the wall and leaving it unplugged for at least 10 minutes, then trying again? I had a Nano II 45W die on me and that was one of the troubleshooting steps Anker had me try, it should reset the USB-C controller in the charger itself. Also, IIRC there was some button combo that would reset the USB-C controller on the LCD Deck, I’m not sure if that works the same on the OLED but it’s worth a try.