1·
10 months agoA lot of manufacturers recommend a brake fluid flush after the first 3 years, and every 2 years after that. This is a 2020 so it’s right in line with the recommendation
- 0 Posts
- 10 Comments
Joined 11 months ago
Cake day: November 10th, 2023
You are not logged in. If you use a Fediverse account that is able to follow users, you can follow this user.
A lot of manufacturers recommend a brake fluid flush after the first 3 years, and every 2 years after that. This is a 2020 so it’s right in line with the recommendation
You know what, i was prepared for a negative ass anti-mechanic top comment and i was really to be pissed off about it. But then i read your comment, and you know what… you’re a breath of fresh air. You’re absolutely right in everything you said, and you didn’t take shots at the technician who’s just doing his job and trying to make a living like everybody else. Bravo good sir or madam!
You know what, i was prepared for a negative ass anti-mechanic top comment and i was really to be pissed off about it. But then i read your comment, and you know what… you’re a breath of fresh air. You’re absolutely right in everything you said, and you didn’t take shots at the technician who’s just doing his job and trying to make a living like everybody else. Bravo good sir or madam!
Speaking strictly about if you can drive your car with a bad alternator and a new battery… yes. For about 2 to 3 minutes. Then it will leave you stranded
Adaptive cruise control is way outside of the realm of backyard DIY. It uses radars, and has to be calibrated using really precise mirrors and lasers and stuff. Plus you need a scan tool as well. You’re not going to DIY fix it. You’ll need to take it into the dealer, or a highly skilled indy shop, NOT a Firestone or Jiffy Lube. ADAS is complicated.
With that being said, the most common reason that I’ve seen for Adaptive Cruise Control faults has been misaligned radars, usually mounted in cheap Chinese aftermarket grills
No, you’re just going to make things worse
If it was fine before the swap and not fine after, you still have air in the system. Bleed it more
That’s rust. Your car has the dreaded cancer.
If you moved the coil, you don’t have wires. You have coil on plugs. The next step is to do a compression test on that cylinder. The possible culprits at this point are a bad fuel injector, or a cylinder / compression issue. I would suspect the injector first