look at tires and wheel bearings first those are the two biggest causes. certain tire treads can make more noise, but check to make sure they are installed correctly and that they don’t have weird/uneven wear. if they have uneven wear, that points to an alignment or suspension issue. if all checks out on that front it’s most likely a wheel bearing

many things can cause this, but since it’s not blinking the car isn’t misfiring enough to escalate the code priority. weak fuel pumps and injectors can do that, vacuum leaks, poor engine compression and even an engine that is not timed correctly can do that. first get some fuel injector cleaner and have the fuel pumps pressure tested to see what kind of shape they’re in. then try a compression test (harbor freight has a kit for cheap) or a scan tool that can read live data. the scan tool will show the misfire data and the timing degree. if the timing value is way out of wack, it could mean an issue in the VVT system that the ecm isn’t picking up. it could be a computer issue as well seeing as you had a glitch recently. this article has some helpful tips on finding misfires like these. good luck on your search 🫡

you could try disconnecting the battery for 5-10 minutes, that’ll typically fix some software glitches in modern cars. if that doesn’t work then i’d take it to the dealer

this sounds like a blend door issue to me. inside your dashboard there are a bunch of ductways for the air and electrically controlled doors that direct the flow of air. these can get stuck or break, causing heat and/or a/c to come out certain vents. it could also be a clogged heater core. both require some intense dashboard disassembly unfortunately

this sounds like a blend door issue to me. inside your dashboard there are a bunch of ductways for the air and electrically controlled doors that direct the flow of air. these can get stuck or break, causing heat and/or a/c to come out certain vents. it could also be a clogged heater core. both require some intense dashboard disassembly unfortunately

yes that should definitely be replaced soon. the squealing sound on modern belts is actually somewhat designed to be a wear indicator so you don’t break a belt and end up stranded.

never flush a transmission, only drain and refill the fluid believe me it’s plenty enough for a transmission. they’re super sensitive and can very very very easily get damaged if they are flushed. if you do it yourself, measure how much fluid came out and put the same amount back in that way you don’t have to guess on the level because unfortunately most transmissions nowadays don’t have dipsticks. also buy the fluid straight from the dealership, you really don’t want to mix fluids. yes it’s a bit more expensive but your transmission will be very happy

never flush a transmission, only drain and refill the fluid believe me it’s plenty enough for a transmission. they’re super sensitive and can very very very easily get damaged if they are flushed. if you do it yourself, measure how much fluid came out and put the same amount back in that way you don’t have to guess on the level because unfortunately most transmissions nowadays don’t have dipsticks. also buy the fluid straight from the dealership, you really don’t want to mix fluids. yes it’s a bit more expensive but your transmission will be very happy

depending on the amount it would take to fix and the condition of the exterior and interior probably somewhere around 1500 to 4k

they can be ok cars if you keep up on maintenance. i work on rental cars and we don’t do all the maintenance that i personally would want to have done and the cars definitely have some more issues because of it. however like you said you keep up on maintenance so it won’t be nearly as bad, but GM in recent years has had a lot of quality control issues. mainly plagued by electrical issues as they age, but modern GM transmissions also aren’t great. but good maintenance can make or break a vehicle

take it to an auto parts store, most will do free battery and alternator load testing and that can give you a much better idea of what’s going on

the tires themselves could have some form of uneven wear, which can cause an imbalance that you can feel but the machine can’t. it could be powertrain or suspension related, although for the conditions you described not likely.

you’d be hard pressed to find any similar parts, unless it’s powertrain related and even that’s a big if. the reason being that the 2nd gen car was designed and build while mazda was still dealing with ford. after that, mazda completely redesigned the structure, interior, exterior and powertrains of every vehicle to incorporate the skyactiv technology. so if both vehicles have the 2.0 skyactiv powertrain, you might be able to compare part numbers but honestly it’s a very very slim chance

definitely grab the receipt and show them these pictures. that’s a super rookie mistake and if you hadn’t noticed that you very well could have blown your engine. i’d get an oil cap and top off the oil if you plan to drive it, but really stress to the dealer how serious it is. these engines are not cheap and because it was serviced at the dealer, you can let them know that they would 100% have been responsible if the engine had blown.

it looks to be an issue in the key system. if you have zero issues with starting the car and using all functions on the key fob, go ahead and just erase the codes. modern cars have so many computers and so much going on that it’s possible the one responsible for the key system got weird data at some point. it could also be a low key battery. but realistically you should be able to erase those codes and all will be well

a few things could cause that grinding at startup, a failed vvt solenoid, dirty oil, not enough oil, or an issue within the vvt system. even the screen inside the solenoid can get clogged up and cause it to do that while waiting for oil pressure. i personally would be wary of fixing that car as they tend to to have more major issues as they go along. and considering the original transmission is still in the car, i’d be really gentle on it if you do decide to get it fixed. just don’t spend more money than the car is actually worth. but here’s a friendly tip for buying a new car if you end up doing that, take it to a mechanic for a prepurchase inspection. they can hook up tools of all sorts and really inspect the car to make sure it’s a good buy, that way you don’t have to have as much anxiety about wondering if you’re getting a good car

it could very well be a weak battery. new cars have so many electronics and sensors with really low voltage needs, so a weak battery won’t be able to correctly supply voltage to everything consistently and it could cause major disruption throughout the car. have the battery and alternator load tested at like an auto parts store or something. if all is well it could be an issue with the switch, the control unit, or even the rear calipers with the motors that physically engage the parking brake. but with the slow cranks you mentioned a battery is most likely. i’ve seen cars with dying/old/worn out batteries cause some really strange issues or throw the most oddball codes that make no sense in relation to the data being read or the actual behavior of the car. i think i have seen some recalls/tsbs related to mazda and the rear calipers failing so look into that to see if it applies to your car.

with all automatics never ever ever get them flushed, just drain and fill that’s plenty enough. as for mileage intervals id do cvts and dcts every 30-40k miles, however the upper end for pretty much all autos is every 60k miles. if you’re looking for official recommendations good luck, many automakers don’t specify transmission mileages anymore as they claim the fluid is “lifetime” which is definitely not true. but stick to the general rule of thumb of 30-60k miles depending on transmission

unfortunately yes. vehicles with direct injection use a low pressure pump in the tank and of course the high pressure pump near the fuel injectors. when you run the tank low, the low pressure pump has to work harder to supply consistent fuel pressure to the high pressure pump, meaning it is working harder as well. however because the high pressure pumps run at over 1000 psi, straining them due to low fuel pressure is fatal much more often than a low pressure pump. it’s also more fatal for high pressure pumps as they somewhat rely on the fuel to lubricate the pump, much more so in diesel vehicles. so just make sure not to run it too low too often and all will be well

well hyundai has lower general quality than toyota, they don’t last as long and have more problems in the same time frame than a toyota, which contributes to depreciation. that’s why used corollas can be so pricey is because they are well built cars that don’t have problems as much, where hyundai/kia are much more hit or miss. some people have over 200k miles on theirs, while many many others have issues ranging from electrical gremlins to destroyed engines, even on near brand new cars. another reason is that hyundai/kia actually own their own steel companies, meaning they can get certain high cost materials for much much less than other car manufacturers