Instead of weaving fibers, the team grew dense mats of mycelium, the threadlike filaments of which naturally intertwine into cohesive sheets. The researchers then soaked the material in glycerol—a syrupy compound that acts as a plasticizer, making the mycelium softer and more flexible without killing it. The result was a supple, living textile.

When supplied with nutrients, the fabric sprouts a layer of fuzzy fungal filaments across its surface, effectively renewing itself.

Clothing made from this is not ready-to-wear. And even if the technology matures, it won’t solve fashion’s sustainability problem.