What I’ve seen several times when discussing carbon vs. Stainless steel as to kitchen knives (for instance here) is that carbon steel can be honed quicker, to a sharper edge, and retains the edge longer. On the other side, it’s more brittle, and rusts if you even think about rain.
carbon steel can be honed quicker, to a sharper edge, and retains the edge longer. On the other side, it’s more brittle, and rusts if you even think about rain.
First, the article you linked is a nice high-level introduction. To go deep, though, there’s no better place to start than Knife Steel Nerds. (@djundjila@sub.wetshaving.social might find this interesting as well.)
As with most things, the answer is “it depends”. Edge retention and toughness (resistance to fracture) can be dialed in to suit a purpose. And there are different compositions of “stainless” to choose from, and different hardening regimes as well.
Honing is very much related to picking the correct abrasive for the purpose. I’m simplifying, but in addition to coarse, medium and fine abrasive material, you also need to consider the hardness of the abrasive. The closer an abrasive is, in hardness, to the material you want to abrade, the longer it will take to do the work you want to do (again, simplifying). The abrasive in Japanese natural stones (silicate) and coticules (garnet) are about the same hardness (Mohs scale) as stainless steel but are almost twice the (Mohs) hardness of carbon steel. So, these stones are well suited to one steel and not as great for another. However, the aluminum oxide in man-made abrasives can cut most steels well; except for the steels with very high vanadium carbide content. Diamond abrasives cut any steel well.
Yeah, that’s pretty much my opulence experience, too. Dense, no suds, and you need to load super heavily. But that fragrance ☺️
I speculate it’s the “tradition” part in “traditional wetshaving” at fault.
What I’ve seen several times when discussing carbon vs. Stainless steel as to kitchen knives (for instance here) is that carbon steel can be honed quicker, to a sharper edge, and retains the edge longer. On the other side, it’s more brittle, and rusts if you even think about rain.
I don’t know whether that’s true, though.
First, the article you linked is a nice high-level introduction. To go deep, though, there’s no better place to start than Knife Steel Nerds. (@djundjila@sub.wetshaving.social might find this interesting as well.)
As with most things, the answer is “it depends”. Edge retention and toughness (resistance to fracture) can be dialed in to suit a purpose. And there are different compositions of “stainless” to choose from, and different hardening regimes as well.
Honing is very much related to picking the correct abrasive for the purpose. I’m simplifying, but in addition to coarse, medium and fine abrasive material, you also need to consider the hardness of the abrasive. The closer an abrasive is, in hardness, to the material you want to abrade, the longer it will take to do the work you want to do (again, simplifying). The abrasive in Japanese natural stones (silicate) and coticules (garnet) are about the same hardness (Mohs scale) as stainless steel but are almost twice the (Mohs) hardness of carbon steel. So, these stones are well suited to one steel and not as great for another. However, the aluminum oxide in man-made abrasives can cut most steels well; except for the steels with very high vanadium carbide content. Diamond abrasives cut any steel well.
I think so as well.