Coolant is not overfilled. Originally was at max and was still doing this. I lowered it to about halfway between the min and max line. Although now it’s at the min line from some coolant spilling out due to this issue
I did also try burping and squeezing my rad hose to massage any air out. I have let run without the cap on to ensure there was no air. No bubbles or anything till it starts to get operating temperature at which point without the cap the system will rapid start to rise in level and bubble. With forscan that’s around 200F reading both head and coolant temperature or middle of the temperature gauge in the dash (not near the redline).
Like this was why also tried a combustion leak test cause I was worried about a head gasket, but never did change color. Also did check the indicator fluid directly on the exhaust to make sure it was good and it changed color there, but not from the cooling system.
This morning before I went to work I just did a compression test on all for cylinders cause still worried about a head gasket. I got about 180 PSI plus or minus a couple PSI on all of them. So that seems good. So I am definitely thinking it’s something like the thermostat or water pump.
I mainly was curious if anyone had used any of cheap thermostats and had good results. Cause the thermostat is not cheap for this vehicle since it has the integrated housing and a heating element for the computer to open it up sooner if it decides too. Compared to a normal thermostat on other vehicles I have owned.
Like an OEM water pump is cheaper than the dang thermostat if you look at this picture. https://imgur.com/a/nIDXAfF
Coolant is not overfilled. Originally was at max and was still doing this. I lowered it to about halfway between the min and max line. Although now it’s at the min line from some coolant spilling out due to this issue
I did also try burping and squeezing my rad hose to massage any air out. I have let run without the cap on to ensure there was no air. No bubbles or anything till it starts to get operating temperature at which point without the cap the system will rapid start to rise in level and bubble. With forscan that’s around 200F reading both head and coolant temperature or middle of the temperature gauge in the dash (not near the redline).
Like this was why also tried a combustion leak test cause I was worried about a head gasket, but never did change color. Also did check the indicator fluid directly on the exhaust to make sure it was good and it changed color there, but not from the cooling system.
This morning before I went to work I just did a compression test on all for cylinders cause still worried about a head gasket. I got about 180 PSI plus or minus a couple PSI on all of them. So that seems good. So I am definitely thinking it’s something like the thermostat or water pump.
I mainly was curious if anyone had used any of cheap thermostats and had good results. Cause the thermostat is not cheap for this vehicle since it has the integrated housing and a heating element for the computer to open it up sooner if it decides too. Compared to a normal thermostat on other vehicles I have owned.
Like an OEM water pump is cheaper than the dang thermostat if you look at this picture. https://imgur.com/a/nIDXAfF