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11 months ago440 and 920 is my best guess…
without year make model to see where the wires go…
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Cake day: October 25th, 2023
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sent you a private messages with links to the wiring diagrams you will need…
have your mechanic install a kill switch or kill switch and relay…
i don’t know how hyundai powers the fuel pumps…
on single speed fuel pumps… there is a fuel pump relay in the underhood fuse box… could be else where…
a 4 or 5 pin ISO relay… the power wire to the fuel pump is cut… the relay installed the wire from the front goes to relay pins 30 and 86… the wire to the pump goes on 87… pin 85 gets a long wire to a hidden switch… if you are crazy smart you will have that first switch not hooked to ground but to a second switch hidden in the trunk… so you can turn off… one or both to prevent the fuel pump from being powered …
if you use a 5 pin relay… you can use pin 87A to power a horn hidden inside the car…
aggressive machining marks when the flywheel was resurfaced…
rust build up on one surface or the other … causes extreme wear sometimes…
does the disk slide easy on the input shaft splines…
if you fully charge the battery and only run your daytime running lights… you should be able to make the 20 minute drive to work…
you will have to recharge at work … and recharge at night…
i can’t tell how much current your car will use each trip…
after the headlights are on for a minute… turn them off…
measure battery voltage…12.65 is a full charge.
12.45 is a 3/4 charge.
12.25 is a half charge…
running the defroster blower or the rear window defroster … even the wipers will discharge your battery faster. .
carry a battery booster pack… you can let it sit on your battery for 10 to 15 minutes to put some charge back in your battery…
heck. i have driven a car a few blocks with a booster pack on it. not one of the compact ones…
find compression stroke number 1 piston. bring the damper groove to the 12 before or TDC… which ever…
you want to make sure you are NOT on the number 6 compression stroke…
use a LONG screwdriver to position the oil pump drive shaft groove if standing in front of the engine either in the 9 and 3 position or 10 and 4 Position
turn the distributor shaft till the tip of the distributor rotor is centered over the middle of the HEI module… the distributor should drop in like this and fall all the way in without being held up on the oil pump shaft…
with the damper set to 8 or 12 before… you can turn the distributor housing till the Pickup coil and reluctor poles line up perfectly… this is dead stick timing an engine… ><
please when setting the crank to 12 before or TDC… look at the 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the damper… one of the 3 bolts should be 45 degrees to the right of center… there are 3 different timing mark positions on chevy balancers… you could have a 12 o clock timing groove… a 2 o clock or a 2:30 position. but the keyway and the 3 bolts are always in the same position in relation to the crank…
HUGE HINT… preset the crank before taking the distributor out of a running engine by turning the crank till the rotor is pointing to the number 1 cap position… slowly turn the crank to line up the reluctor and pickup coil poles perfectly… >< look at the damper and timing pointer… this allows you to get the distributor out and back in to the exact same place…
20 years ago… a customer came in with a TPI corvette C4 with a bad pickup coil… the magnet was broken… i prepositioned the engine as described… so i knew exactly where the distributor needed to be set. the customer was sitting behind me watching that i did not mess with anything else… i took the distributor out… knocked the gear off. replaced the pickup coil. reassembled. set the dead stick timing as above… locked the distributor clamp down tight. installed the cap and wires, reach thru the window and turned the key and the engine started … the corvette owner jumped up… how did you do that… i have been doing cars for over 30 years … i have never seen anybody start and engine without needing to turn the distributor to get the timing… i picked up my timing light. jumped the A and B terminal and showed him the timing was perfect…
i then said… why do you think the boss hired me and pays me the big money…
if you have a welder… screw some 5/16-18 nuts on the remaining studs and then weld thru the middle… this should allow you to get them out…
you may end up using a propane torch to heat the manifold slightly… use care that you don’t heat up the intake so much to damage the intake manifold gaskets…
lately i have been using Hylomar or Permatex 85420 flange sealant on the thermostat bolt and water pump bolt threads…
best of luck… been in your spot before several times over the last 40+ years…
sent you a Private message…
i would want to see if the 10A Heater fuse is staying powered with the key off… that is what i would see to keep one of the fans on…
fan relay 1 and fan relay 2 are controlled by several devices…
engine temp switch number 1… the pressure switch on the A/C system A3. and the PCM…
the water temp switch number 1 seems to show in the passenger side radiator tank… hmm, marked W3 on the diagrams…
water temp switch number 2 is on the drivers side area of the cylinder head… i am looking at a diagram… marked W4
how is the ignition coil looking on the outside…
external dust circles indicate external high voltage leaks…
you can use a spark plug… with some wire wrapped around the hex and connected to a good ground to unplug the coil wire from the cap and see if you are getting a bright blue snappy spark…
if you only get an dim orange spark. replace the coil…
on the fuel pump relay… did you check the insertion and extraction force of the relay in the underhood fuse block…
I would love to see wider sample of the wave forms. At idle and 2500 rpm. So you have at least 10 cycles on the images.
The lower two links show that the cats are not reducing emissions. Was that with cold cats. They have to be hot and run at 2500 for a minute or two to get a good accurate sample.
Those lower two look like you dont have any cats at all
Try again.
a quick look at that list shows your fuel trims WERE AT at 32%
that is usually enough to fail the smog… anything over 19.9% sets a code…
do you have a scan tool or obd2 dongle to check the live data and graph the oxygen sensor voltages…
if yes… look at O2B1S1 and O2B2S1 voltages… take the rpm to 2500 and hold it steady. don’t move the pedal up or down… what do the waveforms look like… nice and clean…
then slowly over 10 or 15 seconds return to idle… do the waveforms also look nice…
if they do then look at the down stream sensors… O2B1S2 and O2B2S2 voltages… do this at 2500 again… do you see a voltage between 0.6 and 0.7 or a reduced waveform indicating the cats are reducing emissions…
sending you a link… check Private messages…
in the underhood fuse block… use a test light…
fuse number 17 C/FAN 1 could be a 30 or 40 amp fuse… should have power to both sides all the time… if you only get power to one side… you have a blown fuse…
Fuse number 18 C/FAN 2 a 30 Amp fuse… again constant power to both sides of the fuse…
three relays to change… .
relay 28, 29 and relay 30…
relay 28 and 30 are 4 pin relays…
relay 29 is a 5 pin relay…
when relay 28 is on… relay 29 and 30 are off… you get two fans running at medium speed… the ground side of fan 1 runs thru relay 29 normally closed contacts to fan 2 … the other side of fan 2 is always grounded…
relay 29 and 30 are controlled at the same time…
when the computer calls for high speed fans…
relay 28 is still on… relay 29 and 30 come on…
relay 29 switches and fan one is grounded thru relay 29 in the on position… this speeds up fan one… and relay 30 sends direct power to fan 2 making it run fast too…
could the coolant temp switch be faulty from the overheat…
what temp thermostat did you install???
do you have a scan tool that reads live data stream so you can see what temp the coolant temp sensor is sending to the computer…
i don’t know off hand what temp the PCM will command the fans on…
if you turn the climate control to max cold… do both fans come on high speed…
have you a scan tool that will read other than P0000 codes…
there are B0000, C0000, U0000 codes…
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation
P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)
P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit
P0481 Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit
P0482 Cooling Fan 3 Control Circuit
P0483 Cooling Fan Rationality Check
P0484 Cooling Fan Circuit Over Current
P0485 Cooling Fan Power/Ground Circuit
P1114 Engine Coolant Temperature - Circuit Low Input Intermittent
P1115 Engine Coolant Temperature - Circuit High Input intermittent
P1116 Engine Coolant Temperature Signal Unstable or Intermittent
P1117 Engine Coolant Temperature Signal Out-Of-Range Low
P1118 Engine Coolant Temperature Signal Out-Of-Range High
P1119 Engine Coolant Temperature Signal Out-Of-Range with Transmission Temp
the list goes on.
there are a lot of options…
https://autel.com/us/product-category/diagnostic-tools/advanced-diagnostics/
i have something to help…
check your private messages…
could be worn out brakes…
could be a bad wheel bearing…
could be something is rubbing…
have the car inspected by a professional mechanic and get a written detailed estimate…
#huge chevy fuel pump install hint.
Set the engine to top fead center on the number 1 compression stroke. Either take off the distributor cap. Bump the engine till the distributor rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire position.
This puts the fuel pump eccentric at the most retracted position.
To put the pump in. Disconnect the battery. Pull the engine oil dipstick and come straight down from the top thru the oval opening. Wiggle it to get it in front of the push rod.
Push the fuel pump lever against the pushod and drop the lever down in front of the pushrod. Pull the dipstick out of the opening.
This procedure has the dipstick right behind the alternator. You dont want sparks.
Put the two bolts in loosely. So the pump can wobble. Start the inverted flare fitting to the carb by hand.
Now tighten the pump bolts. Then tighten the fuel line.
It took me longer to type it than it does to do it.
Before you tell me there is an easier way. Try it.
from dougs headers… https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-hg9692?seid=srese1
96 to 98 chevy underhood fuse block…
https://i.imgur.com/Vl1PUmw.jpg
so you can see which is the fuel pump relay to change …
change the the fuel pump relay… i bet that is your issue…
its starting when the oil pressure comes up enough to close the switch in the oil pressure switch… nothing to do with the gauge sender but in the same part…
remove the fuel pump relay cover. i bet the contacts are burned away…
this is the exact problem you describe…
i have found several 98 Chevy trucks with blocks of sponge in the underhood fuse block holding the fuel pump relay in place…
which function did you blow out…
only the 10 or 20 amp shunt if fused…
motor magazine did a short multimeter test…
https://www.motor1.com/products-services/auto-products/automotive-multimeter/
these Bosch 750 multimeters are just over 200 bucks… Bosch is OTC tools after a buyout… i have not tried one of these…
https://otctools.com/products/750-series-automotive-multimeter
i miss my 1990s OTC mega meter… it grew legs one day…
95% of the time. i can get by with the 25 buck no longer available 20Amp DC harbor freight multimeter. .
this is the test i start with… https://i.imgur.com/SnzhDh0.jpg
what features do you use mostly…
DC amps…
DC volts…
do you get into milliseconds or duty cycle… pulse width…