I had a similar thought. After reading the article this seems to be more for industrial or investigative use, where the one hour delay is actually fast. It doesn’t seem like something that is intended to be used to double check if random food is spoiled in your house. Think of a situation in which foodborne illness is being investigated. This device could provide an answer in an hour, as opposed to sending food off to a lab to check days later. Or, a factory could use it to keep more real time tracking of the food they’re making since a lot of foodborne illness starts there. One hour of delay is still pretty good since the food is tracked and likely wouldn’t have left the factory by then.
Simple, it’s eye catching, no pun intended. I doubt the real deal would look like that.