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1 year agoIt would probably be cheaper to buy separate Victron units and assemble them and that’s saying something!
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Joined 1 year ago
Cake day: October 25th, 2023
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Replace with a springloaded pin valve and use an electro-thermal actuator.
Aka, automated radiator valve.
1·1 year agoNot sure about your area, but in the UK “most” “good” ISPs will allow ‘alterations’ for a small fee. Items that they don’t want to provide as standard, such as “static ip” or “open port 25” can be added with an email and a one off fee.
That could include getting out of CGNat, getting a fixed IP and having any ports unblocked.
If they have no idea what you are talking about or flat out say “No. Sorry”, find a better ISP!
All of these devices and hubs use the same chips from Texas Instruments.
There are basically 2 defacto chips. The “older cheaper one” and the “newer expensive and powerful one.”
The ZZH is the later. Most others (do check) are the lesser chip.
Issues with the lesser chip are:
* Limited number of devices supported (something like 16?).
* No support for “direct binding” close proximity binding - required to re-bind re-join a Phillips hue bulb.- Lower signal strength.
I have 4 Hue smart bulbs acting as routers around the house, which helps, but honestly it’s far more reliable than the Wifi setups.
It used to be a lot simpler. The “Modem” received a stream of serial data (UART/RS232 + AT control codes).
The digital stream needed to be “encoded” and converted to electrical signals which could be sent on a physical wire… most often the PSTN network (Public service telephone network)… aka “the phone line”.
The audio/analoge technique used to produce the electrical signals was not as you might expect sending “blips” for 1s and silence for 0s. For way out of scope reasons that isn’t efficient. Techniques like PCM or PWM, Pulse code/width modulation. Beyond the scope. However this gets you the “MODulator”, “DEModulator”. Which is you “MoDem”
Today, these still exist. Most would refer to them as “dial up modems”. Rare. We tend to have “home broadband” technologies today which range from plain old twisted pair phone lines carrying 100s of times more bandwidth than an “analogu phone line”, but over the same wires. We have old “Coax” cable for “Cable TV” carrying high speed internet. We even now have pure optical fibre connections in to the home.
At this point, really, it can be argued there is no modem. Certainly not in the terminology used to previously describe one. What often gets refered to as the “Modem” is usually an ONT or similar ePon/docsis device controlled by an ISP which “converts” or “bridges” the optical (or other broadband signal) to “Ethernet”. Most, not all then additionally handle the authentication and “PPP” Peer to peer protocol used to transmit your data over this “You-ISP network”. In larger enterprise these components can be broken down into individual (or multitudes of) different boxes. ONT, PPPoE client, Router, Firewall, Switch, Wifi Access point. In most homes they will either be a single box provided by the ISP or 2 boxes with one provided by the “Network operator” and the other by your “Internet retailer.”
Yes, but, the microwave issue is particular to the specifications and requirements for microwaves.
Most people will believe a microwave is a Faraday cage and thus no wavelength greater than half the grid size can escape. As microwaves are 3cm they cannot escape.
The trouble is, it’s not that simple. The truth is that most microwaves have strict, but substantial leakage allowance. If and it’s a big if these days, they are actually local RF regulations compliant.
While a microwave may have a total leakage allowance measure in milli-watts. As milli-watts of 2.4Ghz is not going to pose any health hazards and won’t case any major RF interference on the larger scale such as would affect radio comes, datalinks and telecoms.
However, even a few leaked milliwatts of 2.4Ghz microwave is going to play havoc with your 2.4Ghz Wifi.
Not all microwaves are as bad as others. The way to test your own microwave is pretty simple. Just put your phone inside the microwave and test your Wifi signal. If you get one, your microwaves is shit. Get a better one. If you can’t see or contact the phone while it’s inside the microwave, chances are your microwave with not interfere with your Wifi.
Get a better microwave.
None of my IoT has an internet connection. I suppose that makes it a NoT.
I use the spoke and star topology in my home. Hardwired CAT5/6 to each main room and switches there. Most have a PC + TV with ethernet ports.
The bedroom CAT5 is provided by the Office netdoor. This was cheaper than running both (or all) rooms to the hallway.
If you are going DIY eco-system don’t ruin the flexibility by focusing yourself on a single platform like HA. HA is no longer generic, it’s pretty opinionated and bespoke these days. It can afford that as many people produce compatible firmware for HA.
Start with something lower level like MQTT as your core data architecture. HA will consume that fine, but it will give you more options.
Another suggestion. Power monitoring smart plugs (Tasmota or ESPHome) these will allow you to monitor and manage your “device clusters” such as shutting down all the standby power in the living room from a switch beside the light switch.
12! Good luck :)
Mine is 6 and getting her first actual online tablet this year from Santa.
In the meanwhile I am rapidly stablising an OpenVPN on pfSense with the worst proxy deny list you have ever seen! Her device will be configured like a corporate device such that if it connects to the wifi the VPN opens and all traffic goes via it… and via daddies firewall, ad-filter and SSFW proxy.
If you have wired backbone, you don’t need mesh.
Mesh is for people without wired interlinks.
Just put the same “migrate-able” SSID on all the access points on the same subnet. Your devices will eagerly migrate as you move around. You can tweak settings in access points (in OpenWRT) to make this happen smoother.
Additionally, you can add specific SSIDs to specific APs if you find “hoppy” zones. “hoppy” zones and devices happens when a device just migrates poorly and seems to end up on the worst possible AP it can be on. Usually the one without “kick on low ack” support. You can use specific SSIDs for those devices.
I have a lot of SSIDs and APs. I have even taken to hidding them just so I don’t flood the neighbours Wifi lists.
lan - house wide, all APs, all frequencies and channels
guest - house wide, all APs, all frequencies and channels
og5 = office guest 5g to force laptops to stay on the Linksys at near Gb speeds and not migrate to the hallway 5G.
o5 = office LAN (same reason)
ds24 = downstairs 2.4Ghz for the Shelly which is trying to have an affair with the AP in the garage, 3 brick walls away when there is a Nighthawk a 2m away!
dsg5 = downstairs guest 5g (used for work laptops only really, guests just use “guest”)
and so on and so forth.
Not all devices have access to all SSIDs. IoT and guest SSIDs are VLANed. etc. etc.
It requires support from multiple bridged virtual interfaces per radio, so you need a capable AP or one with OpenWRT installed.
If by 3 way switch you mean an intermediate cross over so that you have 3 switches in a hallway which all control the same light?
In that case the intermediate cross-over switch will always have at least 1 live.
The problem is, it changes between the two. Every 2 way switch, including cross over intermediates have 1 live, 1 dead port. How they work is toggling between the two.
If the light is on, then all switches in their current position are connecting up the same live. If you change any one switch the light goes out as that switch has by logical expansion switched over to it’s “dead” feed. The really interesting thing is, it doesn’t matter how many 2 way switches you configure like this, switch ANY one of them will change the state of the light.
In practical terms, if you are just trying to power a smart device, you might be better considering a parasitic device and by 2 coils, put one on each “in” live. One will always be live and power will be flowing through ONE of them when the light in on.
They look fine. A lot neater than some of mine. They even cable tied them!
In 99% of cases, 10G makes no sense in home servers.
Because in 99% of cases “homes” typically have predominantly 1G networking and Wifi as the “Access network” with only a handful of users on it, usually not at the same time.
To upgrade this “1G” standard home network to anything faster will require the infrastructure be made available for higher speeds AND that the client devices are capable of taking advantage of it.
Concretely speaking, you will need to introduce a “switch” with higher speeds as well as upgrading the NIC in any currently 1G devices to the faster speed as well.
Practically and budget consciously, 2.5Gb is the present day sweet spot for consumer/pro-sumer “home” networking. It is relatively cheap, compared to 10G which “can” require a rewire if the CAT5e is substandard.
I have a single 10G link. It goes between two 1G + 2.5Gb switches. I used a simple “DAC” copper link between them.
I have 2 additional 10G ports, so I could link the two Proxmox servers which would take advantage of that speed during migrations and backups, but nothing else on the network is 10G capable or even close to needing to be 10G capable.
10G hardware typically costs a lot more to run. A 10G port might consume twice the power for the same data, even if it’s never hit more than 900mbit/s.
Use-cases which could justify a house-wide 10G upgrade might be, video streaming. I don’t mean playing a remote MP4 off the NAS via plex. I mean real time video streaming, such as lossless video conferencing, remote desktop with full 4K 60FPS playback capabilities. HDMI over Ethernet and so forth. Live uncompressed security camera footage etc. Remote gaming, ie. having a single beast of a gaming server with enough bandwidth to stream 2 clients at 60FPS. More bandwidth = less compression = less CPU = less packetisation delay = less latency = better gaming.