To further clarify, that’s carbon dioxide (CO2)–moderately inconvenient vs. carbon monoxide (CO)–deadly.
To further clarify, that’s carbon dioxide (CO2)–moderately inconvenient vs. carbon monoxide (CO)–deadly.
Scratch up, yes. Damage, not unless he actually hit the curb.
I would buy that; however, not all vehicles with wireless CarPlay have the same issue (including my previous car and my partner’s X5) at the same location. It’s clearly a shielding issue that needs to be resolved.
Uh… no. Not even remotely. Let me name a few as to why either CarPlay or Google Drive are better:
And no, there’s no subscription for CarPlay in my 2023. I purchased it outright.
To provide some perspective, I bought a 2015 F30 335i brand new with just ConnectedDrive (obviously). Wanting CarPlay was enough of a driver to motivate me to buy a new car; however, I was able to install an aftermarket (BimmerTech) CarPlay head. That got me another three years on the car.
Well, on one hand, I’m glad I’m not the only one that has the issue. On the other hand, that means there’s an actual issue with the car.
Mine occurs on a light business road in the middle of a residential area.
On longer trips, I see the issue to varying degrees. In some cases, it will disconnect, drop to ConnectedDrive, then reconnect. I’ve also seen it where the entire CarPlay portion of the screen goes black and just won’t come back. I’ve had to reboot my phone to recover.
Have you seen this behavior?
It’s a pump physically attached to a water heater that I’m controlling. The outlet and pump are both in the attic and that space gets up to 120° or more during the summer.
Unfortunately, yes. There are several critical loads on that circuit.
Very happy with my 2023 G80 M3 MT and wouldn’t even consider an automatic.
I wish the assist could be disabled by default.
There’s no right answer to this question, and you’re going to get an entire spectrum of responses.
For example, take the parking debate. You have one camp (that I belong to) that parks far away from the “commoners” who might door-ding our investment. You have the other camp that scoffs at us for being ridiculous about a few inconsequential dents.
Another example: food/drinks in the car. One camp doesn’t allow anything in their car (I happen to also belong to this camp), the other camp finds that ridiculous and lives their life normally, happily spilling catsup, crumbs and Coke all over their interiors and just having them detailed on a regular basis.
The same applies to the exterior of the car. I’ve always belonged to a car wash club that uses brushes. I had a black 2015 F30 335i prior to my G80 M3, and I ran it through an average of once every two weeks. After eight years of car washes was the paint damaged? Not in my opinion. That’s the key, though. Was the paint showroom new? Nope. Did it look fine? Yep, especially after I had it detailed.
I do the same thing with my new M3.
At the end of the day, which is worse? A dirty car or a clean car that’s 15% less shiny than showroom new after five years of car washes? 'Cause I’m sure-as-hell not going to hand-wash my car when it’s 98 degrees and 80% humidity outside for four months out of the year.
I’m facing the same dilemma right now.
I have heat/smoke detectors tied into my Ademco Vista alarm panel and it’s monitored by a central station, so I have that covered. I do not, however, have any CO detectors.
Like you, I consider linked, hardwired detectors the way to go and I’ve identified some candidates. There’s also a Z-wave bridge that can tie to the signaling wire to communicate back to Home Assistant. I’m trying to decide what the value there is beyond being able to monitor CO levels when I’m not home.
Here’s the CO detector: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gentex-Hardwired-Interconnected-CO-Alarm-with-Dualink-and-Relay-Contacts-CO1209F/202934253
Here’s the bridge: https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-800-series-z-wave-long-range-dc-signal-sensor