Otherbarry

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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: February 1st, 2025

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  • Eh, I think a community or communities is enough for those interested. Not sure that there’s a ton of people on Lemmy clamoring for an entire instance devoted to anything JKR related but you never know.

    Harry Potter is only going to become more popular.

    ESPECIALLY with the series, on the way.

    Maybe wait to see if it actually makes it past 1-2 seasons. There’s a lot of press about them planning to do like 7 seasons or whatever but I can guarantee they’ll stop dumping money into producing future seasons if they feel the series isn’t doing well enough.

    Personally haven’t thought about watching the series, forgot it was a thing until your post.






  • Well that’s your answer, you usually won’t get a normal Windows boot up with bad RAM. And if by some miracle Windows manages to make it to the desktop with bad RAM it’s just going to crash out sooner or later.

    You’re not going to be able to do any Windows re-installs with bad RAM either.

    The good news is that’s very unlikely all your RAM is bad. You have 4 sticks - this will take a bit of time but what you can do is take out all RAM sticks. Then install one stick, do a memtest run, if it looks okay take the stick out and repeat with each of the other 3 RAM sticks. That should give you an idea on which RAM stick(s) are bad, the bad ones just keep them aside and don’t re-install them.

    After testing each RAM stick individually you can re-install all the good RAM sticks, do a final memtest run & verify it all works together (it should be fine at this point but sometimes you have to do multiple memtest runs to suss out bad RAM).

    Once you remove all bad RAM your system should be able to boot into a Windows USB install and make it through the entire install normally. Or alternatively you can test if your current Windows 10 can fix itself once the RAM issue is resolved but there’s a good chance it’s pretty broken now.


  • If you’re at the “Preparing Automatic Repair” screen that means it skipped booting from USB and is trying to boot from internal drive with the messed up Windows install. Maybe try booting without any internal drives connected to see what it does, most computers would boot normally then complain there’s no boot device.

    Also your earlier post mentions you are using an Asus ROG Crosshair Hero VIII Wifi motherboard so some other ideas…

    • According to the manual that motherboard should display a boot menu when you press F8 at the beginning of the boot process when the initial Asus logo appears, it probably won’t work every time but when it works after the BIOS finishes scanning RAM and hard drives it will give you a boot menu listing your bootable SSDs as well as any bootable USB devices it found. (if your boot USB isn’t displaying there then you’ve got a different issue, maybe you formatted it wrong, maybe you need to disable Secure Boot temporarily, etc.)
    • That motherboard has a Q-Code LED in the upper-right of the board, it’s a little LED that displays alphanumeric digits. When the system hangs look at the board & see if it’s displaying anything in particular, that could give you an idea on what the issue is. Cross reference with the manual all the Q-Codes are listed there (see https://rog.asus.com/us/motherboards/rog-crosshair/rog-crosshair-viii-hero-wi-fi-model/helpdesk_manual/)

    Next time you’re in the BIOS I’d suggest making sure Q-Code is enabled (it should be by default but just in case) and probably disable Quick Boot if there’s an option, the boot process might be going too fast for you to catch a USB boot with F8.

    Dunno if any of that helps but hopefully it does… good luck!


  • Is it Windows 10 Pro or …?

    With Windows 10 Pro you can disable Windows updates by editing group policy (run gpedit.msc with elevated permissions), look for Computer Configuration / Administrative Templates / Windows Components / Windows Update and set “Configure Automatic Updates” to Disabled.

    Not sure how to do that on Windows 10 Home or other versions - the above probably corresponds to registry setting(s) but am not sure which one.





  • Booting from a usb is not working. Automatic repair is hanging for hours.

    Do you mean just a Windows USB, or anything USB?

    Personally what I’d do in that situation is load SystemRescue onto a bootable USB (can use YUMI or Ventoy), boot off that, let it run a memtest for a few passes to rule out RAM issues. Then if that looks okay boot into SystemRescue again and run a smartctl long test against the NVME drive in the computer and make sure those stats look good. That should at least rule out RAM and SSD problems.

    With Ventoy you can load other OSes too, copy a Ubuntu Linux ISO on there and see if the system can live boot into Linux. If it does then maybe your issue is purely just Windows being Windows, there’s only so much you can do with a broken install.

    Though I’m a bit surprised you can’t at least boot off a Windows USB and go into recovery mode… maybe double-check that your boot USBs actually work on other desktops/laptops? Would be silly but possible you have both a system/Windows issue along with a bad USB drive making things extra confusing.

    Im going to get an nvme adapter, pull the important data off of my c drive

    Yup definitely work on that, feels like even if your hardware is fine/fixable you’re going to have to re-install your entire OS no matter what.


  • Not saying that is for sure the culprit, but could be worth a try if you’re not getting anywhere with other solutions. Especially if the system keeps hanging at the BIOS screen before even attempting to boot to USB or Windows.

    It’s possible your original build just started out with an older battery so with some luck a replacement could be an easy and cheap fix :)

    Could that be the culprit? Why was it fine for almost a whole week?

    Oddly that’s how those issues tend to manifest themselves. You start having unreliable boot ups, sometimes it hangs at the BIOS because it lost the prior BIOS config, and somehow the next startup manages to keep going with defaults.

    Unfortunately even if that is the issue and you fix it, the prior Windows installation may be pretty broken if it is unable to fix itself… if you manage to get to the point that you consistently get past the BIOS, and Windows itself isn’t repairing it, then maybe the next step is booting off a Windows 10 USB and try to do a repair from there.

    Also maybe start thinking about how you’ll back up your data in the case you need to start over with a fresh Windows install… since it’s Windows 10 maybe the universe is telling you it’s time to move onto Windows 11 or migrate over to the world of Linux but that’s your call to make.


  • Do you have a separate GPU installed and does your CPU/motherboard have a built-in GPU? If so may as well try unplugging the GPU, plugging your monitor into the motherboard video port, and see if the system boots up. (this is just in case it’s actually some GPU issue)

    Otherwise, maybe a long shot - How old is your computer? You mentioned Windows 10 which makes me think it’s possibly on the old side… if something like 8-10+ years old it could be that the battery on the motherboard needs to be replaced and your entire system is acting up during reboots (this is especially obvious if there’s any power outages). Try doing a BIOS reset - if there’s a button on the motherboard to do that you should be able to press it, otherwise just take the motherboard battery out, unplug from power for something like 30 seconds, then plug power/battery back in and try a boot up. That could get you to at least boot up past the BIOS and you may want to consider buying a new battery to install into the motherboard. … I don’t know if Windows 10 itself would start after all this but at least you can find out if the hardware is still okay.


  • Sounds like a SSD drive connected via SATA. You’ve already tried swapping SATA cable, did you already try plugging into a different SATA port? If the SSD doesn’t show up at all then it’s probably gone at this point… hopefully you have backups.

    You could also try installing the SSD drive into a good external USB case/adapter but I doubt that’ll yield different results.

    Not sure about all the other stuff you’re doing, unless this issue occurred right after you updated or reset your BIOS there should be no reason to mess with BIOS downgrades, RAM speeds, SATA settings, etc.




  • Definitely against AI music. If someone accidentally posts something that was AI generated (& it later gets removed) that’s fine and all, but submitting that type of music on purpose would be a bit much. Maybe have a separate community for AI slop music if people want that sort of thing.

    I’m kind of neutral on AI artwork, to me it’s not a big deal if the musician themselves did something like that to include with their music. But it does trigger a lot of people so if that also gets removed it’s not a big deal & most legit musicians aren’t going to publish music with associated AI art anyway.



  • Yes.

    Not only that, the current generation of smoke detectors have sealed batteries so you can’t even open them up to change batteries or anything. So once they expire in 10 years they start their incessant “I’m dying” non-stop beeping - that’s when you dispose of the entire smoke detector and buy a new one.

    I’ve read that they don’t detect smoke as well after 10 years anyway (e.g. even more false alarms) so it’s probably for the best to get rid of old ones.