Cool hack I learned from my 2016 tC. If you break both Door lock actuators, you can still open the car with the physical key but the key fob and keyless entry won’t work. Plus side is you can warm your car up and lock the doors (they will stay locked). Add a steering wheel lock and you’re set 😂😂😂

Dissenting view, why not a Mazda3 Carbon Turbo or Preferred? The prices are pretty much the same for the Camry SE and Accord 2.0T. Reliability is the same, but no subscription smart key. I owned a 2004 Hatch manual, got wrecked by a dumbass going on red. But if I had to choose right now… Mazda3 or CX-5. Interior is phenomenal, performance is spot on (they tend to be well tuned from stock) and they look sexy as hell. Only downside is that they don’t tend to have as many lenders available as Honda or Toyota dealers, but their value holds well.

Pretty much what everyone here says. The interval is very important, especially depending on the usage of that interval. Remember that (1) hour of idling equals to 27. 5 miles driven. Miles driven in temps below 34°F and above 103°F are considered heavy use and require a shorter interval. Towing or pushing to the cars Rev limit also shortens interval. My 16’ tC is my first Toyota, however all my other cars I stared doing the BG crankcase cleaning every 10k or one year after 60k and seafoam additive every other oil change after 60k. Had one 92’ Accord go to almost 317k, a 2010’ F-150 V8 that got to 227k until it got hit by a Drunk driver in a chevy Dualie and my wife’s 03 Accord still alive and kickin at 281k. My 16’ tC has just over 91k.