Perfectly normal
Clean off and put some anti seize on the face to stop your wheel getting rust stuck in future. It can be very annoying if you get a flat. Don’t put any lube or anything on your studs though.
I wanna know what car still uses drum brakes. I thought they went the way of distributors and carburetors.
Tacoma still used them up to this year. 2024 finally got rear disks.
Nope a lot of cars still use em for back brakes since they require less maintenance and cars mostly brake from the front anyway
Less frequent maintenance but I’d rather do discs and pads 5 times than brake shoes once.
Spray it with Rustoleam paint after you sand it and let it dry before putting the wheels back on
Perfectly normal. Clean it with a hub cleaning tool and put some grease on it to prevent it.
Why does it need service after only 1 month?
Is it a Lada? Normal 🤣
Could also sand rust and then prime and hit with one of those high temp rattle cans as the high heat paint might survive better
didnt know cars still came with them. must have missed that detail.
Brush on some warm olive oil like a cast iron pan.
Ohio mechanic here- rust? Where?— anyway totally normal-!its cast iron, itbgets nearly red hot then gets cold when you park it will rust 100% of the time… when the rust is flaking off itbis still ok- the wear happens in the inside with good maintenance those will last 150,000 miles or 20years
Not a problem. Just spray that drum face with fluid film before reinstalling the wheel.
No. Nothing goes on mating surfaces. The friction between the wheel and the hub is what holds the load. Applying grease is a great way to put that load on the studs and snap them.
Never thought of that. I just assumed the centering hub held the weight.
@abracadabra_71 thank you!
Bet to not do that in case you get some of that on the wheel studs. Then the possibility of wheels coming loose and losing a tire becomes a thing. I’d rather have some thing seize together than fall off this is one of those things.
Actually I put grease on the studs and the wheel mounting surface whenever I replace the wheels and they don’t come loose if torqued correctly. It really prevents binding. Been doing this for over 10 years and never had a problem
Grease or oil is completely changing how the torque and that stuff works. A joint works by stretching the bolt like a rubber band and the friction under the head and between the threads keeps it from slipping.
Greasing the threads reduces the friction which greatly magnifies the torque you can apply to the stud, which means you are stretching it much farther than designed. The lower friction in the threads also means it is easier to loosen or come off completely if it gets loose.
Biggest danger is work hardening and snapping the studs off.
I used to oil mine too before I learned all of this.
Never had a stud come lose and never broke one by overtightening. I don’t even use a torque wrench, i just use my foot to press on the wrench until it feels tight enough, but not stuck - i guess years of experience teach you where the sweet spot is. On the contrary, i am having trouble getting the studs off after occasionally taking the car to a service and they put the wheels on with a pneumatic gun, that’s why i avoid these guys as much as possible and change my own wheels.
I agree your theory is correct, but in practice things proved out to be easier and good enough for practical purposes.
Normal. Cast iron will surface rust very quickly when exposed to moisture.
You can get a wire brush and remove it then spray it with some fluid film to slow the process down.
However, it’s just going to keep happening once the film wears off.
The key is to make sure you use a little anti seize on points where the wheel hub mates to the drum. That way, you won’t have an issue of rust building up and seizing the wheel to the drum later on down the road.
Take some sandpaper and clean both faces off good then either do fluid film or anti seize!
They still make cars with drums?
The rust is not a concern.