“Like a 1960/70s MG maybe……” – I’m midway through a 71 MGB conversion. I went with Nissan Leaf Gen 1 as the main drivetrain/battery, and using a Thunderstruck VCU.

I chose the MGB because it was $200, small, and fun. The leaf because it was the best documented, easiest to acquire, and has a good curve on price-falling-as-second-hand-inventory builds up. For the fun and feel of it, I’m using the original MG manual transmission.

Some issues so far: The full Leaf stack (Motor + Inverter + PDU) is too tall to fit under the bonnet. I’m working through options on where to put the PDU.

I intend to put 24 of the 48 modules in a trunk recess, and the other 24 in the space behind the driver/pass seat. That puts about 100lbs directly over the rear axle and I think that might lead to sag on these old leaf-springs.

I am also working through where to mount the necessary radiator, and coolant pumps, and of course where to put a 12v battery.

I am pleasantly pleased to find that the MG wiring system is very primitive and is easily printed on a poster sheet of paper. Everything flows through the six fuses under the hood.

Rust is brutal on this old MG. It so bad - its really beyond being worthwhile, BUT, for $200 its a project that if I dont complete, wont be a big $ drain.

Oh - it is a real pain in the ass to figure out how to fit and mount a digital accelerator where the original gas-pedal went. The one I have is too long, wants to be mounted at an angle thats not feasible. That one’s on a long-think.

I’m also keeping the '71 mechanical gauge faces, and instead driving them with RC servos via a RaspberryPI thats listening for CAN bus messages (speed, range, rpm, temp, etc)

Shoot me questions as you have them

If you do this math, it helps:

Take the original curb weight of the car, subtract the weight of the engine, the radiator, the gas tank and misc., add a motor at about 125lbs and then 6-800 pounds of batteries. Now look at your frame, suspension, steering and brakes. Now find the space / volume in the vehicle for the batteries. (See a Tesla module and find space for 6-8 of them )

The answer for me was a pickup. The pack is below the cab and between the frame rails. My total weight went down, the brakes and steering could handle it and I have full use of the cab space and bed.

Best of luck!

Almost anything pre “digital” era. Not so much because of the lack of electronics and component complexity (fuel injection, CANbus, etc) but because the overall structural and bodywork design of the vehicle is simple. There was no computer aided design enabling super efficient use of space, or added luxuries like noise deadening materials - things that can make installing EV bits tricky.

I keep wanting to see a bunch of Citroen 2CV conversions. It was specifically built to be a lightweight car built for a small engine. Perfect for a small electric car.

VW Beetle by a mile

I am currently doing a Porsche 914 conversation and it is a perfect candidate. Tons of space for battery boxes, easy to work with transaxle, all in a light-weight well-balanced car. Plus beat-up ones are pretty affordable and parts are plentiful.

RE MGs,… just make sure you plan for where your batteries need to go. depending on the model, those can have little to no trunk space.

It depends on the type of conversion you’re doing.

A FWD vehicle is an excellent candidate for Prius or Leaf drivetrains. Batteries under the back seat and truck.

A manual transmission vehicle can use just about any electric motor as the input if it meets the power requirements.

A vehicle with independent rear suspension can easily (weld in new mounts and axles) accept an drive unit from most production EVs.

Having high ground clearance, long hood (Porsche, 240/280z), or long rear (wagon) allows for larger battery boxes.

So basically if it’s not a really short unibody vehicle it’s not too bad.

The betamax of the 21st century but only 3000% more money wasted.

Im just completing a conversion on a 1961 VW Kombi Double Cab, probably the Kombi and Beetle are the easiest to do. With the Kombi it is basically bolt in without any body modifications

Saw a Citroen DS converted once - makes sense with the hydraulic suspension. Can easily handle the weight.

Anything with a drag coefficient below .31, .31 should be the max you go or you start losing major mileage from drag, maybe .32, that and transaxles rule but can still get away with regular transmission. If I wanted to do it cheap I always thought of a 90’s ford thunderbird since you use to get a good one under 900 bucks, had good drag, suspension, and the heavy v8 meant replacing them with batteries wouldn’t make a difference to handling. I want to do a g35 though cause the drag is about the same as a first model Tesla, having a little trouble figuring out where to put batteries for even weight distribution to not mess with the handling though. People also pick 944’s or mr2’s (I’d smooth over the flat rear end though, it was designed to create drag for more grip at higher speeds, good for racing in petrol, bad for driving with electric). Also a e39 6 cyl have great drag coefficient, that was my original choice (you can look up a conversion called e39 phoenix that went farther than a Tesla, they used the interior for batteries so it’s kind of cheating in my book but they did it) zLot of people choose fwd cars cause of the transaxle but drag is key too.

I imagine you could fit a lot of batteries in a panther body.

I’ve been following “Electric classic cars” conversions,they do one off conversions of any classic car,and can use that job as a template for any following car of that type. They’ve done Classic VW Beetles,Vans,OG Minis,Fiat 500s,Land Rovers…They have definitely done at least one classic MG,IIRC…